My boss doesn't want me to go.
My wife didn't want me to go.
My daughters don't want me to go.
There are mortgage papers to sign. Holiday presents to buy. Meetings. Luncheons. Project deadlines. I don't have the time. I don't have the money.
Lots of good reasons not to race off to Hawaii at the last minute for the greatest, rarest big-wave surfing contest in the world. Good excuses. Solid citizen excuses. Then a friend makes a wisecrack.
"Eddie would go."
It's meant as a joke. But really, isn't it all about Eddie? How could I tell the story of Eddie Aikau and the surf contest that honors him if I didn't go? At the heart of the story is the terrible beauty and serendipity of the sea. Now it is calling....
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